OVER THE MOUNTAIN

Today I rode over a mountain. The mountain in question was Hieizan, between Kyoto and Otsu. I wanted to find alternative route to Otsu and Lake Biwa than the one I usually take, along Gojo Street and Highway One. But after biking up a lot of hills on the edges of Yamashina, and finding only dead ends, I crossed to Otsu by Highway One anyway. 
 I turned right toward Sakamoto and somehow I found myself climbing the road for Hieizan. The sign said 4 kilometers. So what if I'd been riding uphill for two hours already, and the sky was threatening rain (at least I couldn't get sunburnt in the rain!)

Typically of minor mountain passes in Japan, there was no bicycle lane. In fact, there was no verge, no side of the road, only a white line and about 10 centimeters of seal. Most of the road was barely wide enough for two cars to pass each other, and there were buses and trucks as well, so in between flattening myself against retaining walls, and jumping in and out of ditches I made slow progress. But the traffic wasn't too heavy, the rain only lightly sprinkled the road, the heavy vegetation covering the mountainside breathed cool air on me, and just when I was feeling slightly desperate a pet memorial park (?!!) provided a clean toilet - with paper.

 I reached the top of the pass at about 3 pm, having set out from my home at about 11:30 am. I'm really not one of those super fit types, and I was feeling a little shaky by this stage, so I sat down on the kerb to get my breath back, and popped off a few shots of the entrance to Hieizan Driveway - no motorbikes or, I presume, bicycles. Huh!
A little way down the hill there was a convenience store so I replenished my energy with an onigiri (rice ball) and a double shot espresso iced latte. I bought a chocolate bar too, but it's still in my bag.

I love riding downhill. I'm no speed-freak, but it's always such a wonderful relief after slogging uphill. But it turned out that I had to keep stopping for photo opportunities. The road descended beside a beautiful mountain stream with weathered rocks and pale sandy bottomed pools. Waterfalls cascaded off the slopes into the stream, and a graceful white spotted deer bounded into the trees, started by my sudden appearance. A lovely old villa, abandoned to slow decay, rose out of the tangled growth beside the stream. A newly painted red brigde invited passers by to cross and follow a mysterious path through the maple trees. A radium onsen (hot spring) loomed over the road. A glade full of mossy stone statues demanded my attention. Finally my camera battery expired. I take too many photos, really I do. But I need to share the wonderful surprises that are why I love biking in Japan. I haven't found anyone who will come with me yet...

Entrance to Hieizan Driveway

Then, quite suddenly, I was in Kyoto City again. The stream, Kita-Shirakawa, flowed into captivity between straight concrete walls. The close-packed houses closed in around the road. Dusk fell as I rode along Philosopher's Way and a temple bell and chanting sounded from the hillside. At Keage the rain finally began in earnest, so I sheltered a while in a tunnel of old red brick. But it was still so warm I decided rain didn't matter, and I headed for home.